Once finished, you can install the pump upside-down in the case and torque the bolts for the two pump halves. A friend gave me the instructions from this kit and this is the only modification I use from them. Some of the modifications are from a Trans-go kit(front pump seal drain hole) but I have never installed one of these kits. I would rather use a stiffer spring, but all three work well. Although some people like the B&M shift kit, I personally don't like using the spacers for the accumulators. I use Art Carr's Super rebuild kit and Mike Kurtz/Art Carr shift kits. Sometimes 2nd gear band burned/pitted(from broken 1-2 accumulator spring). Rear pump body grooved from pump rotor(requires replacement of pump assembly) Stator support splines chewed up/worn Broken 1-2 accumulator spring. Direct clutch and Forward clutch have same problem. Most of the problem spots are: 4th clutch is usually burned or hot spots on the steels/backing plate. Assemble with new clutches/bearings(if needed) and re-assemble outside case. Foamy brite works good on the case/valvebody for removing grime and clutch dust(although if possible take the case to a machine shop and have it hot-tanked. Carb cleaner works great for removing all the clutch dust in the drums/housings and valves. Clean/inspect everything thoroughly one section at a time. As you disassemble the main drive pieces, assemble them back together(I use the converter, on the floor, hub up ,install pump and the rest of the main drive in the order that it came out of the case). Turn wire to get it under the housing and pull it out(kinda crude but works for me.). For the low/reverse clutch housing, I use a piece of #6 solid copper wire bent in a "L" shape inserted between the output shaft and the housing. Same with removing the center support(exposed outer area of the support). Although there is a special puller for removing the pump, I use a brass drift/hammer(lightly) on the exposed portion of the rear pump body. Remove everything from bottom of trans(filter,valvebody,wiring/TCC solenoid,governor/cover,1-2 accumulator housing/backing plate,separator plate, 3-4 accumulator and check balls). Mark both drums as to their mating for reassembly(can bee seen after dropping the pan). One thing to note is the input drum teeth to direct clutch drum notches. Pretty straight- forward for disassembly. For example,there are a lot of torrington bearings that MUST be installed a certain way(some not the way you would think the are to be installed) and clearances that MUST be set correctly or it will break(trust me I know.).
#GM TECH 2 DIY MANUAL#
One thing I must mention is that you need a shop manual and/or someone who is VERY familiar with these transmissions. I'm always open for new ways,idea's and methods. Some modifications are for VERY hard shifts and are not necessary for a mild rebuild(items are noted).Īny other things that I have missed or people do different, I would like to know.
Just a hobbyist who likes to do things himself whenever possible.Some people may disagree some may not, but it is what has worked for me(so far). As I have stated before, I am NOT Art Carr or Mike Kurtz or Level 10 or ?. These are modifications that I do to the 200R4 when I Rebuild them. Here is something I wrote for rebuilding the 200R4 for your reading enjoyment.
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